Two days in Guatapé
The plan we give to anyone arriving for the first time and staying the night:
- Day one, afternoon. Arrive, drop the bags and walk to the main square. See the zócalos in afternoon light and stay in town for dinner.
- First night. Walk back. The town winds down early and the water goes still.
- Day two, early. Have breakfast and head down to the dock before nine: that is when the reservoir is flat and empty.
- Mid-morning. Head out to the Piedra del Peñol. It is 740 steps, and fifteen minutes by car from here.
- Afternoon. Kayak or paddleboard from the dock, or simply the hammock.
La Piedra del Peñol
The monolith is 4,1 km from the hotel: fifteen minutes by car, or a little longer by tuk-tuk from the square.
It is 740 steps by a stairway wedged into the crack in the rock. At the top there is a lookout where the whole reservoir opens out in arms.
When to go: as early as you can. By mid-morning there is a queue on the stairway and the sun is straight on. You pay at the base, and it is worth bringing water.
The zócalos
Zócalos are the painted friezes along the base of the façades, and they are the reason Guatapé looks the way it does. They began in the middle of the last century and today there is no house without one.
Each zócalo says something about whoever lives there: the family trade, an animal, a scene from the countryside. The Calle del Recuerdo, covered in coloured umbrellas, is the most photographed, but it is worth getting lost in the ones beside it.
When to come
Guatapé sits at 1,900 metres above sea level: mild days and cool nights all year round. Worth bringing a layer even when it is sunny.
- December to March. The driest season, with open skies. Also the busiest.
- April to May and October to November. It rains more, almost always in the afternoon. The town is quiet and the greenery is at its fullest.
- On weekdays. Guatapé changes completely: at weekends and on public holidays a lot of people come from Medellín.
Getting here
From Medellín it is about two hours by car along the Medellín-Bogotá motorway. By bus, they leave every hour from the Terminal del Norte to Guatapé.
From the José María Córdova airport (Rionegro) it is about 47 km, roughly an hour and a quarter. We can arrange the transfer in advance.
If you are coming by car: the hotel has free private parking, which in the centre of Guatapé is no small thing.
What to do on the water
The hotel dock is where you take out the kayak y el paddle, among the things you can ask for at reception.
The boat trips follow the arms of the reservoir and pass near the ruins of old El Peñol, the town left under the water when the dam was built in the seventies. In the dry season the level drops and you can make out the cross.
There is fishing too, though for that you need to head out from the hotel.